Bánh Xèo and a Dive into Ethnocentrism and Chopsticks – Global Adventures in Food and Archaeology

I was recently introduced to bánh xèo (pronounced bun say-ow)-Vietnamese crispy, umami crepes. To say I am obsessed is an understatement. It is like a better, crispier version of the French crepe (no offense to crepes of course). Invented in central Vietnam during the Tay Son era (1771-1802), this popular street food has taken on a variety of styles, ingredients, and dipping sauces. But all of them are known for their turmeric and rice flour base. Cooked properly, they make a sizzling sound when they hit the hot skillet, hence the name (xèo means “sizzling” in Vietnamese).

But when asking about this street food, its origins, etc, I got hung up on how to eat it (I will come back to this later). I naively assumed with chopsticks. And while I was not wrong, I was also not right. It turns out that in Vietnam, chopsticks are commonly used for certain dishes (such as noodles), and not for others. A “shoveling” method is used for rice wherein the rice bowl is held up and the rice funneled into your mouth. Spoons are used for soups. Hands for lettuce-wrapped dishes. Pork or other meat may be eaten with a knife and fork. In sum, people in Vietnam use a variety of utensils. It takes knowledge of cultural traditions to use the correct utensil in the correct way.

Chopsticks and Assumptions

So why is there a common Western assumption that all food is eaten with chopsticks in Asian countries? In part, because chopsticks were invented in China some 5,000 years ago and have become ubiquitous in some East Asian countries since (there is a great book that reviews the history of chopsticks: Chopsticks: A Cultural and Culinary History by Q. Edward Wang). As this author points out, chopsticks were not even the original food-eating tool used in China, that accolade goes to the spoon. But as foodways changed in the first century, wheat (think noodles and dumplings) became more common, and later rice (11th century) chopsticks increased in use until they became the primary utensil.

The key word is some. How many of us have eaten pad thai with chopsticks? What if I told you Thai people do not traditionally use chopsticks? In fact, chopsticks are mainly used in just China, Korea, Japan, Mongolia, and Vietnam. But within and between each of these countries there is a considerable variation in chopsticks- their material, style, use, and etiquette; reflecting the cultural variation found within these places.

Ethnocentrism and Foodways

This led me to wonder- what if my assumption that all Vietnamese food was eaten with chopsticks reflects a larger pattern of bias? We all hold some degree of bias. Our culture(s) are filled with ideas about others. These can present as biases (the tendency or preference for or against something or someone; they can be explicit and implicit), stereotypes (a widely held but oversimplified and generalized belief or idea about a particular group of people), or even just assumptions about something we are unfamiliar with.

In this case, I assumed a relationship in foodways between Vietnam and other Asain Countries. Why? Partly because I have been served chopsticks at Vietnamese restaurants. And, I am sure partly because of media I have been exposed to. But, it could also be because I assumed “all Asian countries use chopsticks.”

This realization got me thinking about a different sub-field of anthropology-that of cultural anthropology. Usually, I talk about the past (archaeology) in this blog. But as an anthropologist, I also am familiar with cutural anthropology, biological anthropology, and linguistics (the other sub-fields of this discipline). Cultural anthropology is the study of human society and culture (ie human diversity). When I teach cultural anthropology, I stress that this field is about “making the strange familiar and the familiar strange.”

What does that mean? A good anthropologist is tasked with both understanding and explaining cultures that are unfamiliar to them (the strange) and challenging the assumptions and biases that may be present in their own culture (the familiar). Anthropologists strive to be culturally relative (the idea that we should seek to understand another person’s beliefs and behaviors from the perspective of their own culture and not our own) and not ethnocentric (the tendency to view and evaluate other cultures from the perspective of one’s own culture, often considering it as superior or the standard by which all other cultures should be judged).

Challenging the idea that all Asians use chopsticks is pretty straightforward.

First, not all Asians are the same. That might seem obvious, but one only has to look at the U.S. Census to see a pattern lumping all Asians together. Asia is not a single place or culture. Asia is an incredibly diverse continent with numerous countries and cultures, home to more than 2,000 languages.

Focusing on chopsticks, exploring their history reveals a complicated and nuanced past, as well as a high degree of cultural variation. Not all chopsticks are the same. Nor used in the same way. Nor made from the same material.

For Vietnam, a deeper dive shows patterns of interaction between Asian countries, that sometimes resulted in the adoption of new practices. Chopsticks were likely introduced from China centuries ago, perhaps as far back as (or even before) the Chinese Han Dynasty (206 BCE – 220 CE) which expanded its control over parts of northern Vietnam, leading to increased cultural exchange between the two regions. And how and in what contexts Vietnamese people use chopsticks became their own, distinct from the practices in China. How new practices are adopted is always culturally situated (something I have discussed in past posts).

While my assumption may not have been mal-intentioned, it certainly reflected a gap in my knowledge. The onus is on me in this context to correct it. And while it might not seem like a “bad” assumption, any assumption can perpetuate stereotypes and biases so I would hedge that good and bad are relative. Reading about chopsticks online lead to the discovery of numerous posts and Reddit threads about why chopsticks are “inferior.”

This, my friends, is an example of an ethnocentric viewpoint. Ethnocentrism can play a role in shaping our opinion about unfamiliar practices. This type of thinking can lead to a lack of appreciation or understanding of cultural diversity and can result in prejudice, discrimination, or a failure to engage with other cultures on their own terms.

Chopsticks certainly are not inferior. So, let’s challenge that assumption (following the common narratives I saw online).

Different technology does not mean one is inferior and the other is superior. Just different.
Metal is not always better. And chopsticks can be made of metal. In fact, early chopsticks as far back as 200 BCE may have been made of metal.
Forks can be more efficient for some foods, but have you tried to eat sushi with a fork? Efficiency is relative and dependent on the type of food and proficiency at using a utensil.
Forks are not necessarily more sanitary. In fact, reading about chopsticks I came across the practice that if you use your chopsticks to get food from a communal dish, you should turn your chopsticks around to use the clean side. Forks are not bi-directional.
Forks are easier for many in Western cultures to use, but that is because many of us did not grow up with chopsticks. And if we play the easy game, hands are easy too. And funnels. Maybe a robot feeding us? The point is, easy is in the eye of the beholder.

Takeaways

What I tell my students is that we all hold beliefs that are based on cultural biases. How could we not? They are constantly reinforced through our culture. These do not necessarily make you a bad person. But it is up to us to challenge our beliefs and ideas about the world and others. We should all take strides to step outside our own worldview (cultural relativism). And when we come across a belief or idea that turns out to be a bias or stereotype or assumption, it is up to us to educate ourselves (not the other). One of the best ways to identify and evaluate our beliefs and worldview is to learn about other people and cultures.

If something seems strange, ask yourself why, and then learn more about it. I guarantee once you do, it won’t seem so strange anymore.

And when in a hurry, a quick Google search or conversation can reveal a lot of cultural do’s and don’ts.

Eating Bánh Xèo- With Chopsticks?

Okay okay, back to bánh xèo. How do you eat it?

The answer is it depends!

It can be broken up into pieces and eaten with chopsticks. Or rolled into lettuce and/or rice paper and eaten with your hands. For me, the key is to dip into the delicious sauce with each bite.

Making Bánh Xèo

First, we used this recipe for the sauce, Vietnamese Fish Sauce Recipe (Nước Chấm) by Huy. It is so good.

https://www.hungryhuy.com/vietnamese-dipping-fish-sauce-recipe-nuoc-cham-nuoc-mam-cham/

The crepe recipe is from Chef Robert, who kindly instructed me on how to make, and correctly eat, this tasty dish!