Italian Anchovy Pasta – Global Adventures in Food and Archaeology

Pasta and Italy go hand in hand. It is Italy’s signature dish. But, does pasta really originate from Italy? The answer- sorta. The earliest archaeological evidence of pasta comes from the site of Lajia in northwestern China. At this site, a late Neolithic (circa 4000 BP) earthenware vessel was found to contain preserved noodles, made from millet flour (similar to wheat)! According to researchers, the noodles resembled the common La-Mian stretched (pulled) noodles found in China today. These are by the far the oldest noodles yet discovered; the next record of noodles comes from texts written during the Han Dynasty in China (25-220 CE).

But what about Italy? It is likely that trade brought Chinese noodles west, spreading across Asia and all the way to Turkey. Noodles quickly became common in the Middle East in the 5th century, another early contender for the invention of pasta. From there, pasta worked its way to the Mediterranean (including Italy, which was not yet a country). In fact, according to Perry “the first clear Western reference of boiled noodles is in the Jerusalem Talmud of the fifth century CE written in Aramaic for which the term ‘itriyah’ (pasta) was used.” A few centuries later (the 8th century), what is now Italy (Siliciy specifically) was invaded by Muslims. According to Mehra et al, this invasion played a significant role in the history of Italian food and culinary practices. Through invasion, Arab cuisine and culture were adopted in the region. Interestingly, one of the dishes brought over was pasta con la sarde (pasta with sardines), more on that later.

But Italian pasta cannot be only linked to Arab influence/conquest and earlier trade with the East. Pasta appears to have also arisen in the Mediterranean as an independent invention (what anthropologists use to describe whenever two or more very similar ideas, principles, technologies, or items are developed independently). This is supported by the European archaeological and historical records, in which pasta references appear as far as the Roman-Etruscan era. Texts from this time refer to the making and eating of pasta-like dishes. This includes the famous Roman poet Quintus Horatius Flaccus who wrote of eating a “modest meal of pasta and vegetables” around 34 BC. This pasta, made from wheat and other grains was mixed with water, and usually rolled into thin sheets, and then cut into strips.

The takeaway? Pasta and noodles (the distinction of which depends on when and where the term is used, so I am not going to bother with it here) have been part of our cuisine for thousands of years; likely dating back to the period following the domestication of grains, such as wheat and millet. Many different cultures developed their own forms of noodles, and their importance has been maintained across generations.

In order to decide on what pasta dish to cook, I had to go back to my Italian heritage. My Great Great-Grandma Colagiovanni came to the United States from Italy in 1919, following her husband. As an Italian, pasta was an integral part of her diet, even after she came to the United States. She was originally from the southern Italian province of Molise, a mountainous region that dips down to the Adriatic sea. This is important because each Italian province has its own local pasta dishes, stemming from the widely different geography of Italy as well as historical influences in the region. Molise, and the neighboring Abruzzo, are commonly known for in la cucina povera (the kitchens of the poor). Pasta dishes from here include cavatelli and fusilli.

Another common dish here, as well as in Sicily and across Italy, is anchovy pasta, a common poor person dish in Italy, often referred to as “peasant cooking.” This is very similar to the pasta with sardines brought to Sicily during the Arab invasion in the 5th century. However, this dish uses anchovies, not sardines. Anchovies have an interesting history in cuisine. These small fishes are found all over the world and have been used as a source of food (dried, cooked, and even ground into a paste) in many ancient cultures, from Europe to Asia to South America.

In Italy, anchovy is often cooked as a sauce called “allec” or “garum.” Iterations of these sauces can be traced back to the 3rd century BCE (and even earlier if we go back to ancient Greece). This ancient sauce and was made from fishes, such as anchovies, mixed with herbs and then brined in salt. It was very popular and was commonly traded across the greater Mediterranean world. It was even produced and stored amphorae in Pompeii. Suffice to say, Italians have a long history with anchovies.

Me (right) with my sister Julia at Pompeii in 2001

My Great-Grandma Colagiovanni always made anchovy pasta for dinner on Christmas Eve, a tradition my Grandma Zullo continued until her death. In fact, making Christmas eve anchovy pasta is a common Italian tradition. My father has fond memories of the family gathering in the kitchen on Christmas eve while his mom, my Grandma Zullo, prepared the pasta. He describes it as a joyful occasion, with laughter and merriment, and with the smell of anchovies in the air. For those of us who like fish, this sounds wonderful. For those who do not, the pungent smell of anchovy is probably less appetizing. He assured me that while anchovies have a strong smell, they have a mild taste when cooked. Once stirred, the pasta was served immediately, along with salad, fruit, and lots of Christmas cookies. However, it turns out that while my family often ate anchovy pasta, the recipe never got recorded. So together, my dad (Jim) and his cousin (Jeannie Demarinis) helped me re-create the dish.

We also made scatza pitz, what Great-Grandma Colagiovanni called her Italian sausage roll. This eggy, sausagey, gooey dish was a beloved snack for any time of day.