Korean Tteokbokki (stir-fried rice cakes)
Tteokbokki (pronounced duck-bo-key) is a popular Korean dish made with chewy, cylindrical rice cakes and a spicy chili sauce. There are two versions, the mild one (this is the original version) and the spicy, gochujang-rich, one. Bother versions are similar in that they feature garaetteok, a cylinder-shaped white rice cake, and are often stir-fried along with ingredients such as fish cakes, vegetables, and boiled eggs. The dish can be served as a snack or a main dish. Tteokbokki has a sweet and savory flavor and is known for its chewy texture and spiciness. Today, it is a staple in Korean street food.
History of the Dish
What you may not know is that tteokbokki, the beloved street food we know today, was once a part of Koteran haute cuisine. Datings back to the Joseon dynasty (1392 to 1910), one would find this dish served only to royalty. The Joseon was a time of significant development and transformation in Korean culture, society, and politics. It was during this period that the Korean language and writing system were standardized, and Confucianism became the dominant ideology. The centralization of government, the creation of a civil service examination, and the development of Korean literature were also hallmarks of this time. But it was also a period when Korea was subject to frequent invasions and internal strife. Despite the turmoil, the Joseon dynasty greatly influenced modern Korean society and culture.
Also undergoing transformation during the Joseon dynasty was the food. The increasingly popular formal and elegant dining would influence what is called “royal court cuisine,” also known as “hwae sik.” While defining “royal court cuisine” is challenging due to the various dynasties that have ruled the Korean peninsula throughout history, this generally refers to a type and style of foodways characterized by elaborate preparation, presentation, and consumption of food influenced by Confucianism, which placed great importance on harmony, balance, and hierarchy in all aspects of life, including dining. Royal court cuisine emphasized the use of seasonal and local ingredients, and was highly sophisticated, with dishes ranging from simple to complex and numerous courses served during a meal, including soups, stews, and side dishes made from vegetables, meats, and grains.
What dishes were stapes of the “royal court” were often in flux, as new ingredients, spices, and cooking techniques were adopted and evolved. What we can tell is that it was at this time that tteokbokki was invented (although earlier versions may have existed as far back as the Three Kingdoms period (57 BCE to 668 CE when the rice cake was thought to have been invented).
In the 1990s, Korean royal court cuisine gained renewed interest as part of a cultural preservation movement. The increasing globalization of Korean food and the growth of the middle class fueled this revival, leading to a desire to recreate traditional court cuisine. The sophisticated and exclusive nature of court cuisine also appealed to those seeking unique dining experiences amidst the abundance of modern Korean restaurants. With this came the resurgence of tteokbokki, and eventually the invention of the popular spicy red version of the dish so popular today.
The authenticity of modern tteokbokki compared to traditional versions is debated, as recreating historical food and eating practices relies on both written records and oral tradition, leading to varying interpretations and disagreements (Moon 52). What is clear is that the royal court cuisine in Korea today, and staple dishes such as tteokbokki, are considered the epitome of high cultural heritage. For Koreans, the uniqueness of the food, including the serving style, reflects a national identity that sets it apart in a globalizing, post-industrial, and postmodern world.
Want to make a meal for a royal court?
In Korean cuisine, the basic structure of a meal consists of cooked rice and soup with several side dishes, which always include kimchi. Meals are typically accompanied by soup, stew, broth, or other liquid dishes, pickled vegetables, rice cakes, noodles, fruit, and even pastries. The status of the meal is often judged by the number of side dishes, with a meal having three, seven, or twelve side dishes. Likewise, all dishes, including dessert, are served at the same time during a meal and can be eaten according to the preference of the diner. This simultaneous service is a distinct structural feature of Korean meals and can be found in everyday meals as well as ceremonial events such as weddings, milestone birthdays, and ancestral rituals.
The Recipe
