The History of Okonomiyaki
The name is a little misleading, this is not a traditional American pancake. This is a Japanese savory pancake mixed with a variety of vegetables, meats, and/or fishes, then covered with sweet, thick sauces. It is truly an “as you like it” dish, open to variation and creativity. I prefer mine with pork belly and squid.
There are two common versions of the pancake: Hiroshima and Osaka. The recipe I developed is for the Osaka version, which mixes the cabbage in with the batter. The Hiroshima version, on the other hand, cooks the cabbage mixture in-between crepe-like layers. Both are delicious. There are many great recipes out there, I recommend also checking out the one by Shihoko of “The Chopstick Chronicles.”
The tradition of the grilled pancake in Japan is quite old, dating back to Buddhist ceremonies during the Edo period (1683- 1868 CE). This sweet basic crepe-like pancake was made of fried batter and sweet miso, called Funoyaki, and was served at tea ceremonies. Supposedly, the dish continued to evolve, perhaps into Sukesoyaki (from the Meiji period 1868-1912 CE), and other similar pancake-like dishes (often served with a variety of sauces), before transforming into the okonomiyaki we know today.
However, the origins of cooking in Japan go back much further. In fact, pottery, as used for cooking, was first invented in East Asia some 16,000 years ago. The Jomon period shell-mound site of Torihama, located in western Japan, has some of the earliest evidence of pottery used as cooking vessels by early hunter-gatherers. Archaeologists have conducted molecular and isotopic analyses of lipids (organic compounds that are fatty acids or their derivatives and are insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents) found within pottery from this site and discovered that the peoples living here were not only proficient fishers, relying on the sea for subsistence, but were also adept chefs, cooking marine and freshwater resources in these vessels.
A Jomon vessel 
Reconstructed huts at the fishing site of Torihama, Japan.
Okay, back to okonomiyaki. The name okonomiyaki itself first appeared in the 1930s in Osaka. At this time, wheat, instead of rice, became increasingly common in Japanese cuisine. This is because of food scarcity issues during WWII. Prior to the war, rice was the staple grain of Japan. In fact, rice was first domesticated in Asia (and another variety in Africa) around 8,000 BCE. Prior to the 20th century, wheat was rare, and often limited to the upper class.
However, in the wake of the U.S. bombing of Hiroshima (in 1945) and Japan’s loss in the war, the grilled pancake became a practical and cheap way to feed a starving population with limited food supplies. This is largely due to the influx of flour into Japan, a cheap and available grain, as a form of aid from the US government. This was further bolstered by an agreement between the US and Japan in the 1950s, stipulating that Japan would buy surplus wheat from the US.
As wheat worked itself into the food economy of Japan, new recipes starting emerging, such as dumplings, wheat-based noodles, and okonomiyaki. As this happened, the popularity of these new, wheat-based foods, grew. For okonomiyaki, as more people made this savory pancake, new additions of other, exciting ingredients, such as eggs, pork, cabbage, mayonnaise, and seafood, became increasingly popular. And, the “as you like it” pancake was born.
Despite its humble origins as a way to feed a starving and decimated population, the grilled pancake has since worked its way into local food culture, becoming representative of both the Hiroshima and Osaka regions. Today, both versions of the pancake remain extremely popular (there is somewhat of a rivalry between the two), and have been referred to as one of the most important soul-foods of Japan. Which is more popular? Well, Hiroshima has more okonomiyaki restaurants per capita than any other region in the country.
The Recipe
